Wednesday, July 18, 2012

I Hate Shopping, Unless I Am In Paris

Galleries Lafayette is basically the only store you ever need to visit in Paris. It's like having all of South Coast Plaza in one building. Amazing doesn't even cover it. There are Chanel and LV boutique's inside. There is Pierre Hermes for all of your sugar fantasies. Want sushi? They have that as well. Every brand worth buying is available. Today, everything was on sale.

My mother took me to the store on my first visit to Paris. I fell in love. I returned with my father and he was equally impressed. I managed to convince him I needed a pair of boots at the time. I still have them.

The store is magic in itself. Floor after floor of everything fashionable from babies to what you would want to be buried in.

While inside, I was focused. I didn't have time for photos as I was on a mission. I found a new pair of shoes! That pair quickly turned into another...sensible blue leather booties and ballet flats to match my previous days purchases. The options are overwhelming as there was a rainbow of colors to choose from. I was torn between blue and green and decided if the blue fits, to buy them!

I also found some gorgeous little dresses to match my new life in Nashville. The quality of clothing and the prices here are not like that in the US. Total win!

Hopefully tomorrow I will be back to walking the city and sitting in parks. I did enjoy the metro rides today with the ever appropriate while in France, accordion playing man. Note to self: learn to play the accordion ASAP!

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Petit Plaisir

The little treats.

The entire experience here so far had led me to know it's the little pleasures that matter. Waking up everyday to see the Eiffel Tower is amazing. Finding a park to sit in after walking for hours on end is divine.

Tomorrow is shoes! I'm taking the metro to Galleries Lafayette to shop for something more appropriate to walk in. To be honest, the Paris fashions in the Summer resemble more of fashions in October. Stephane said the weather last week was similar to October. This week has been nice but I almost feel awkward wearing a dress when everyone else is in tights, boots, and jackets. It has me confused. It's not 50 degrees F so what is with all of the clothing. I also feel strange that my dresses are above my knees. I consider myself conservative but this is rediculous!

So new shoes, to walk fashionably in, and maybe a new Chanel lipstick/purse/sunglasses. Let's see what happens tomorrow...

Hemingway & Woody

Stephane mentioned to me before I met up with him, that it was starting to feel like a Woody Allen movie here in Paris. I couldn't agree more. Thankfully I'm a fan. I really do think it feels I'm living in a film. The oddest things keep happening in my life and I'm quite amused.

The characters in Paris are fantastic! The people watching is endless entertainment. Walking the city again today was a great plan. I pointed myself in the direction I wanted to go and off I went. Again, I have no map, just a good sense of direction and a photographic memory to get by on.

I set afoot to walk in Hemingway's shoes for today. My feet hurt now. I came across the Armory and it's gardens. I am quite familiar with it as my father and I stayed not too far from it on our last trip to Paris. It's just past the Champ de Mars...which is a park area that extends from the Eiffel Tower in all it's glory.

The gardens are impeccably groomed. I hope to one day have a garden as expansive.

From there I walked, and walked, and walked. I made a few turns, staying in the general direction I wanted to go. I once again took the scenic route. I did however stop at one street and turned left. It was incredibly strange. Everything went from weird to Cartier and Armani. I found the oasis known as Saint Germain des Prés!

I walked right in to Les Deux Magots for lunch. As one of Hemingway's haunts, I decided to lunch there. By that time the restaurant was buzzing with waiters and an older crowd. It reminded me a bit of dining at Tavern On The Green, in Central Park. (RIP TOTG:()

I had a Salade de Haricots Verts and a wonderful Gazpacho with a Basil Sorbet. A fulfilling vegetarian lunch!

I continued my walk and ended up at the Notre Dame. It was next to my purpose for this day and I stopped by the area but it's overwhelming crowded by tourism during the Summer.

I went back across the street to Shakespeare and Company. I sat outside for a while and watched the people. When I ventured inside, I was transported to a wonderland of books and history.

The store is two floors of bookworm heaven. The upstairs is a writers lounge area. There is a piano and chess set in the fiction reading room. With a decent amount of history in the shoppe, it would be easy to spend a good long time there.

Next, I walked along the Seine. It was cool down by the water. I saw boats and few people. It was peaceful though you must watch where you walk on the cobblestones. There are several "floating restaurants" that boast signs for dinner and a cruise for 49€. It didn't entice me at all.

Insert two identical gypsy situations->
Woman reaches down and comes up looking surprised that, OMG, she has found something! What is it?! A ring! Made of pure gypsy gold as she can't even believe it just happened...she engages you in conversation and says she doesn't wear jewelry. But LOOK its gold! It's stamped 18k so it must be real....too large for her finger she try's to sell it to you for 45€. If you're not careful she will try to slip it onto your finger. Oh look it fits your thumb! You must have it! Imagine the luck!!!
Insert Mandy here -> That ring is made of fine Gypsy Gold! The finest! It matches your teeth!
Gypsy #1 = not so amused.
Mandy = very amused!
Notes to distinguishing Gypsy Gold from real gold:
1) If it wasn't on the ground when your over observant self was walking by, it didn't exist.
2) Men's rings are usually 10k gold. I knew from the get go what the chicks bag was so I humored her and myself.
3) Gold is worth a lot of money. No idiot would find something and sell it for 45€. Ever!
4) Don't worry, if you missed your first chance at striking it rich, just walk about 20m and another gypsy will find the same ring!!!!

I followed that up with a rest on the green belt next to the Seine and then a glass of Rosé and a Metro ride back to my hood in the 15th. My whole body was spent after walking 12+ hours in two days in Toms on cobblestone and pebbles.

Monday, July 16, 2012

Dinner: Back at Bistrot Linois

Call me a creature of habit, but if I enjoy a meal and the service and overall experience is good, I will frequent a restaurant. My last visit to Paris, we dined or had café and dessert at the same place daily. We liked it. It was lovely and a familiar place with familiar faces by the end of our trip.

This evening at Bistrot Linois, I began with Hot Goat Cheese on Grilled Bread. Served atop salad it was a great way to start my meal. The Sancerre here is my favorite. It's possible that it is my favorite French wine. I opted for 25cl over tap water. Wine in Paris is good at any time.

For main course, though I was already full, I had Fois Gras. It was amazing. As a former vegan, I have to say this is the only delicacy aside from bacon that keeps me from going back. I don't care what you say about it, as a chef and foodie, I love it. It is something I wish the Boo's were here with me to enjoy.

I finished my evening with a double espresso. I'm spent. Between the travel, lack of general sleep, wine, rich food, and exercise, I will need the caffeine just to stumble back to my adorable hotel so I can do it all again tomorrow.

Tomorrow's plan, books & art along the water! Let's see how that works out for me...

Where do I even begin?

Day two in Paris has been full. I met Stephane and Alex this morning and enjoyed my time with them. Stephane explained that in the past three years, the Gare Saint Lazare has been transformed from a shady train station into a gorgeous mall of shopping and much cleaner nicer place to travel to and from. After they departed, I put on my shopping shoes and got to it!

Shopping in Paris is actually fun for me. I hate shopping. I don't even like online shopping, yet Paris offers a wonderful selection of stores that are far beyond what is available in America. I could go to Chanel and purchase my lipstick and likely walk out with a handbag that is twice my rent in Nashville. I however refrained today and hit up Promod; aka lil fashion wonderland. It's a European chain, I would say is similar to Zara. It has gorgeous well made clothing at affordable prices. I can't even tell you how much I adore this store.

Half the joy of coming to Paris with an empty suitcase, is the adventure of filling it up. Between the hotel furniture and today's adventure, I'm about 25% there.

After shopping I walked, and walked, and walked about 7 miles before settling on a place for lunch. It was at that point I realized, I'm not lost in Paris, I just took a scenic route without a map or a plan and then it was much past busy lunchtime which clearly meant time for wine! Rosé and Steak Tartar were on the menu at a place that had this in the window:

Epic win! I walked some more...and found the Seine!

I walked all the way from Gare Saint Lazare, to my hotel, on the scenic route. I never asked for directions, never felt lost, and loved every second of it.

I'm now certain, the best way to find yourself is to ditch a map and just walk the streets of Paris. Eventually, you always end up where you intend to be. I didn't venture very far off of my route but I did see a lot of the city. Incredible exercise, incredible people watching, and I only got asked to dinner three times along the way!

Two Chefs and a Boy in Paris

My career as a chef began with Stephane. Everything I know now about food stems from his influence or my grandmother Philomena. It is because of him that I, on a whim, decided to book a flight to Paris. What makes me laugh the most is that he didn't believe I was really in Paris. He of anyone should know that if I say I'm going to come, I will. He said ten other people said they were coming to Paris after they saw his photos. Only one actually showed up...moi!

We met near the train station. Had cafè au lait, croissant, and went shopping with his son Alex. Alex was a baby when I met him and he's nearly ten years old now. I would feel old but neither Stephane, nor I have changed much in the many years I have known him. He still makes me laugh and inspires me. His charm and character are so rare. I can only hope that everyone has a mentor like mine. Especially one you can meet up with in Paris.

Today was wonderful. Though we only spent a couple of hours together, I think this was on my bucket list from the first day I met him, and my job interview lasted three hours. Two chefs and a boy in Paris...perfection!
If only Corey was here with us...

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Hotel Platine

Located in the 15th, the Platine Hotel is full of charm. Much like the boutique hotels I often stay at on my adventures, it has a unique character. The room is so incredibly cute and well decorated that I'm tempted to go back to being blonde.

Shall we discuss the bathroom?!
Decorated in pink and black tiles and with a shower twice the size of any other European hotel shower I have seen, I didn't even know what was about to be the best part...the lights! There are led lights in the tiles and the overhead light changes colors! I obviously need to consider this when I decorate a place of my own. The feminine touches here are incredibly gorgeous. The rug looks like painted roses. The pink houndstooth accent furniture is hopefully going to fit in my empty suitcase. The walls look like black alligator leather.

The Marilyn influence is abound. The gym and the lifts both have her movies playing. They are fun to watch in French. Then again, everything is fun to watch in French.

The breakfast room is also decorated in 50's era Hollywood. While not a truly Parisian hotel experience, it is quite lovely. I would recommend it highly if it is neither your first nor last trip to Paris.
Hotel Platine Paris click here